Saturday, October 21, 2017

Sundance, The Great Falls AFB, Glacier National Park....up at 6,000' with nature and sore feet!

THE BASE AND SUNDANCE!
8/24/17-8/31/17

Malmstrom AFB in Great Falls, MT. doesn't take reservations and arriving at (off-base) "FamCamp" we were told there were no openings.  We were directed to the on base RV park where we'd stay for the next week.  This proved to be a better choice for us because of base activities, proximity to the commissary and gas station. 
A smoke filled view from our RV site
Fires continued to ravage many areas of this beautiful state and the smoke was thick almost daily but we didn't let it damper our plans.  The Air Force Base was yards from the Missouri River where Lewis and Clarks expedition of 1805 faced the "Great Falls".  They camped and dealt with wildlife finally surpassing 18 miles of rough terrain while working their way around the falls.  They were the first white men to see the falls originally discovered by the Indians. 
Ryan Dam was built in the early 1900's to provide power to the town of Great Falls. 
The Great Falls and Ryan Dam

A Montana sunset















The Montana sunsets were amazing!  Malmstom AFB is an active military base with reveille at 7:30am and Taps played at 4:30pm.  The base takes care of their military members and families by offering an annual picnic and free concert.  Being within walking distance we participated in both events.   The picnic offered free bratwurst, hamburgers, salads and drinks not to mention great prize giveaways.  Sunday, I attended an outdoor mass said by a young, enthusiastic priest!  We were excited knowing for weeks, Sundance Head (last years winner of The Voice-we're fans) would be giving a free concert to the military.  It was hot that day and didn't want to get to the outdoor venue too early, so we arrived forty-five minutes early placing our lawn chairs near the stage.  We decided to stay cool in the nearby bar/lounge and no sooner did we walk in, Sundance walks in the building where we had our picture taken with him.  He is from Houston and during this time the city was going through the devastating Hurricane Harvey.  Sadly he said he and his family lost their home.  Some of Perry's family members live in Houston and they fortunately fared better than thousands of others. 
Church outside

It was hot that day but Sundance was "cool"!

An amazing performance











We enjoyed an hour and a half free performance of the pure country guitar playing and vocals of Sundance.  We were a fan a year ago and remain even stronger fans after his amazing performance!

Glacier National Park
Not long ago, Perry and I decided to take the 2 1/2 hour drive to Glacier National Park after the grueling task of finding a place to stay. Everything was booked!  We were looking for a lodge, hotel or cabin that took dogs and I was about to give up when a young gal told me she had one small deluxe cabin  left at a KOA  ….done…pricey…and booked!
While touring the city of Great Falls before our side trip to Glacier, I needed to buy a hiking hat so we stopped at a sporting goods store.  Earlier in Billings, Perry bought one for me (also at a sporting goods store) but it was a child's size.  Arriving at the store in Great Falls, we realized it was the same store, therefore I could exchange it.  Next to the check out counter was a rather large rack of Bear Spray cans.  Hmmmm, Glacier National Park? Yellowstone? hiking?  This $20 purchase would be worth a piece of mind, and I pray I don't have to use it!
It was an easy but smoky drive up to Glacier National Park.  The higher we climbed in elevation, the clearer it got revealing the spectacular tall jagged peaks that reminded me of the Swiss Alps.  
Our Four Seasons rate (but NOT Four Seasons) cabin was cute but small with only a full sized futon and bunk beds.  We decided to let Perry be comfortable and take the futon and I would take the bottom bunk. I didn't mind the bottom bunk (hit my head once) but ended up sharing it with Daisy (the bed hog)! 
A first glimpse of Glacier National Park

A different view
















                                                                                                              
Our cozy cabin



The dogs would stay in the cabin the next day while Perry and I hiked.  The KOA provided doggy day care so we knew they were in good hands.  The National Park Service in Glacier offers a free shuttle stopping at various stops up the mountain on the east side of Glacier National Park with its' final stop being Logan Pass at 6500 feet.   With my bear spray carefully tucked away in my backpack and my new hiking hat, we were ready for our 550 foot climb up the mountain.  The arduous climb indicated what kind of shape I was in as I huffed and puffed (the smoky air didn't help) with stops along the way.  People from all over the world (China, France, India, Great Britain), kept us company as we hiked towards St. Mary's lookout (a steady 1 1/2  mile climb up) and if we wanted to hike further, a steep 1 1/2 mile descent down to the lake. People stopped to take pictures of three mountain goats one half mile from us, when someone pointed out a mountain goat on our trail three feet ahead.  
  It did feel like we were in the Alps and apparently I wasn't the only one as a man pointed out to his children "It feels like we're in "The Sound of Music".
 I couldn't agree more! We knew our legs would be hurting the next day, but the marmot, goat, beautiful wildflowers and trickling streams made it worthwhile. 
A hike up to Logans Pass

A brook along the trail

Some shrinking glaciers

A warning about fires and bears!

"High on the hill is a lonely goat"

One of many marmots at 6,000 ft. 




















































Unfortunately as we headed down the mountain, the smoke from the fires on the west side of Glacier blew in making the air thick clouding our view.   It was hot and we were low on water but determined to find the picnic area to break out our sandwiches.  We got off at the St. Mary's falls location (we didn't see picnic tables) and thought it was a short distance to the falls.  It was another mile to the falls (a mile back up), our legs were sore, low on water and the trail was hot and dry surrounded by previously burnt trees.  We decided to hike back up to another parking lot thinking we could catch the shuttle from that location.  Looking at the map, the next shuttle pick up was a half-mile from where we were.  We had no choice ( I considered sticking my thumb out to the cars on the road), we walked along the road until we came to the picnic tables and shuttle pick up.   
Our smoke filled air on our descent

Finally-take us and our sore feet to the car!















What a day..... sore feet, achy knees and smoke filled lungs!  We felt good about our near five mile hike and after a cold drink planned out our next big hike during our stay in Yellowstone. 



Off to Three Forks, Montana!


Thursday, October 12, 2017

Crow Nation, Custer's Battlefield, The Solar Eclipse, Pow-wow and what's a solenoid?

The Crow Indian Reservation

GARRYOWEN, MONTANA
August 18-24, 2017

My occasional stubborn ways led me to complain about not wanting to stay long at the Crow Indian Reservation in Garryowen, Montana.  It was far from any small town and I was reluctant to stay on a reservation. (Throughout this trip, we travel no more than 5-6 hours, staying for 5-7 days,  and the reservation was a spot on the map as we head west.) Perry compromised and agreed to shorten our stay by one day.  With good reviews,  it was the one and only RV park albeit in the middle of nowhere. 
I kept an open mind as we were greeted by the owners (with a free ice cream) who escorted us to our site.  We were on Montana prairie with nothing but rolling hills as far as the eye could see with an occasional train. The state of Montana was ravaged with wildfires so winds blew smoke in the area. 
Smoky sunset from our RV site



Traditional Tepees 
About five miles further into the reservation we visited a Crow Trading Post and restaurant where most of the patrons were from the reservation.   We ordered Indian Tacos ( regular taco on a thick white Indian bread). Our timing was perfect because we were here during the time of the annual Crow Fair Days, Crow Indian parade, rodeo and Pow-wow.  I knew we were in for an interesting stay!  Not only were we going to learn about their culture (we were a short distance from the Little Bighorn National Park), but the history between Little Bighorn and General Custer.  The RV park was actually part of the one time battlefield of 1876.
Arriving early in the morning at the "Crow Agency" for the parade,  we were amidst chaos, between cars, people in costumes and horses.  There seemed to be as many horses as people and carefully we found a place to park, dodging parade participants.  There were tepees everywhere (Crow nation is the largest tepee area in the nation).  We found a spot along the parade route and I jumped a mile when a gunshot went off to start the parade.  The beginning of the parade was led by Crow Seniors who had served in the military and carried the American Flag.  They were followed by Indian princesses on horses and small children and warriors in their native costumes on horseback.  The parade was soon taken over by Indian chants and singing in their native tongue, cars decorated with blankets and an occasional buffalo head.  (The buffalo was always revered by the Indians.)  It was getting hot and the dogs were back in the fifth-wheel so we decided not to go to the rodeo (we regretted this later on.)  Later that night, we arrived at the pow-wow an hour early.   
Crow Native Americans that
served in the military led the parade
I was driving at the time and noticed the truck wouldn't go into the "drive" position and seemed to be stuck in gear.  Since we started this trip in October 2016 we had put on 30,000 on our brand new Dodge Ram 3500.  How could we have truck problems especially in the middle of a reservation? It was early evening so we decided to enjoy the pow-wow and deal with the truck in the morning (a Sunday)  


The highly revered buffalo



I love the costumes!





A young participant   
CROW NATION POW-WOW
Finding parking for the pow-wow was easier than in the morning and close to the arena.   We were just a few of the "white people", but warmly welcomed.   It was getting crowded and the Crow MC announced there were a few empty chairs for the "white People "who wanted to get close up pictures,  "the owners of the lawn chairs wouldn't be back until later that night".  Gullible me thought this was a great idea but asking a young parade member if it was okay, she informed me the MC was "joking"!  I was so glad we were spared the embarrassment.  We found a seat next to a nice Crow Army Vietnam Veteran and his daughter.  I was in awe of the beautiful costumes, chants, native dances,  Christian prayers and camaraderie among the people.  There was so much more to learn about their culture but the next day (being a Sunday) meant that we couldn't go exploring until the truck was fixed. 



The truck wouldn't go more than 60 mph and the freeway speed in Montana is 80, so we crept along the freeway towards the nearby Little Bighorn National Park.
The Little Bighorn National Monument was full of history (don’t' remember this from school) how the Indians and General George Custer with his troops,  fought for this land in a two day battle in 1876.  General Custer and his 220 men army were defeated and killed here. 
I loved being surrounded by history and found out we'd be returning the next day to see the 93% solar eclipse.  In anticipation of a good viewing location, we had searched for solar glasses for well over a week without success.  We couldn't be happier to know we could return the next day (free glasses) to see the eclipse!  As it turned out, Perry had an appointment to bring the truck to Billings the day after the eclipse.
Memorial to the fallen soldiers of Little BigHorn

Tombstones represent where Custer's soldiers fell
















THE SOLAR ECLIPSE
I was excited to be returning to Little Bighorn National Park and being a Monday, there were a third of the amount of people as the day before.  We sat near the ranger who had a viewing box,  along with twenty other viewers.  We were so excited to be here to witness this historic event (though we only had 93% coverage). The moon crept in front of the sun, the sky got darker, the shadows changed and the temperatures dropped.  Both days of us being here at the National Park, we were pestered by yellow jackets but during the eclipse, eerily, the pesty insects were no longer around.  This is an experience we will never forget on this day of August 21,2017.  

Our fashionable (but free) solar eclipse glasses



The ranger and the viewing box

The eclipse from my phone

shadows cast by the eclipse



































Perry took the truck into a Dodge dealer the next day where they determined it wan an easy fix (something called the solenoid) and soon we were up and running.  We did go back to our original plan of staying six days but there were still things to see and learn on the Crow Indian Reservation.
We visited and picnicked the next day in the Bighorn National Recreation area (still on the reservation).  We were the only visitors at the Yellowtail Dam that supplies water to the reservation built in the early 1900's.  The red rock formations reminded me of a mini Lake Powell in Utah.  It was beautiful, peaceful and very quiet!     
Yellowtail Dam

Bighorn National Recreation Area

"Moooove it!"

THE CROW NATION AND THEIR PEOPLE
As history tells it, the Indians were here long before the European settlers and overtime lost their land to the white people.  The government in the 1800's thought it best that they were given a certain amount of land and forced to live on the reservations with stipulations of some subsidies including food.  Over a century later, my observation of the reservation is there is a lot of poverty, poor education and unemployment.  Working our way back to the RV park, we stopped at a roadside store and learned more about the culture by some Crow women.
There are different clans on a reservation and a Crow child is born into his/her mothers' clan.  When a single clansman is married they are not allowed to look into the eyes of the in-law.  A married  Crow man may not look into the eyes or talk to his mother-in-law.  The Crow children on the reservation learn to ride a horse very early on, the young boys as well as girls, have long black hair. We found the people to be friendly and very willing to share the culture. 

In my trepidation of spending almost a week on a remote Indian Reservation, I can honestly admit I was wrong! 

I have been enlightened and enriched by the Crow Nation!



Devil's Tower, Bear Country (but by car), Aladdin-pop.15, Mount Rushmore & Crazy Horse!

RAPID CITY, MOUNT RUSHMORE, DEVIL'S TOWER, THE BADLANDS,  AND CRAZY HORSE!

  August 11-18, 2017

This next week was going to be an active week with so much to see and the motorcycle rally was about over.  As we worked our way towards Rapid City, S.D.  we headed into some weather.   The big, black cloud slowly moved over us and there were several lightening strikes.  Many of the Sturgis riders quickly got off the freeway either choosing to wait out the storm or change into warm leathers.  An underpass shielded several motorcyclists from the hail and lightening.  Perry and I still haven't encountered enough of these thunderstorms (especially pulling a fifth wheel) to drive with confidence. 
We pulled into Ellsworth AFB where we would stay for the next week, delighting in our daily doses of "The National Anthem", reveille, taps and an occasional announcement of lightening strikes within 5 miles, heeding us to take cover.  
Sturgis riders taking shelter

BEAR COUNTRY
This area is mostly rolling hills and prairies, not far from the entrance to the beautiful Black Hills mountain range, the home of Mount Rushmore and Crazy Horse and …….Bear Country!
Winding roads and a gradual incline brought us to Bear Country, a place where wild animals roam that you can view from your car.  Beautiful Elk  with their large antlers passed in front of us unaware we were there.  We saw mountain goats, lions and then there were the bears!  If I am meant to encounter a bear, this is how I like to see them….in an "escape" vehicle.  There were several dozens of black bears walking everywhere and one came within inches of the truck.  Daisy and Gracie started to bark and I quickly quieted them down being sure not to draw the bear's attention.  This tour was amazing to be so close to many wild animals.  Done with our tour, we drove the beautiful back roads admiring the majestic tall trees.  There are plenty of wild buffalo that we wanted to see in Custer State Park,  spotting a few.   Stopping at a small hiking spot, we got a glimpse of the amazing Mount Rushmore saving that tour for another day.  
Elk in the Bear Country Park

A little close.....


Cowboy country

DEVIL'S TOWER
Not far from Rapid City  is the beautiful countryside of Wyoming and Devil's Tower.  It would take us an hour plus to get to Devil's Tower, waiting out a crazy storm in a small (I mean small) town of Aladdin (pop.15).  The General Store turned out to be a great stopping place for us, the dogs, and dozens of Sturgis riders.  The General Store was busy with motorcyclists finding shelter in this old building, built in the 1800's.  Upstairs were rooms with consignment merchandise mostly antiques.  We came across old record albums and I chose early Beatles and Glen Campbell records for a couple dollars!  The woman at the register answered my question, with a  "yes"- there really are 15 people in Aladdin! 
Are they sure? 15!

Sturgis riders taking shelter

 A stop towards Devil's Tower


















The rain subsided after completing my purchase and we continued on to Devil's Tower.   We passed signs for Cody, Wyoming making me reminisce about the time our daughter, Kaylyn interned on a ranch not far from Cody.  She herded cattle on horseback and many times below freezing temperatures.   I always admired her love of country and horses…..this is her kind of place! 
We climbed several hundred feet up mountains roads and……..there it was!! The most spectacular nature carved piece of art I have ever seen!  Back in the 70's a movie was filmed here about aliens, "Close Encounters of the Third Kind".  I could understand why they chose this place to film about aliens.  There was something ominous, yet intriguing!
Learning about this amazing tower of rocks in the Black Hills, about 50 million years ago it rose up as a result of molten magma that turned into sedimentary rock.  The Kiowa Indians legend is of a group of siblings (one boy and seven girls) playing when suddenly the boy began transforming into a bear chasing  the sisters when a tree spoke to them, telling them to climb on it.  The base of the tree has claw marks from the bear chasing after the sisters! 
Devil's Tower is 867 feet and taking turns to the base (we switched off since we had the dogs), we saw climbers on the Tower….for the real thrill seekers!   Over 5,000 people climb it each year, some don't always make it!
We found a quiet spot to admire this amazing sight, pulling the tailgate down to enjoy a picnic lunch.  I am in awe of Wyoming country and now understand why Kaylyn loved it here!  
And....there it was!

One of the most amazing National Parks

Our picnic spot to view Devil's Tower


















The Indian's claim of bear claw marks
 
Little Daisy on The Prairie!

A LIMO RIDE, BADLANDS NATIONAL PARK, MINUTEMAN NATIONAL MISSILE SITE and WALL DRUG
Perry does 90% of town driving and 100% of fifth-wheel driving and he finally decided he needed a long overdue break!  We chose a tour service to see The Badlands and it was just the two of us in a limo with a fun driver, Russ!  The tour included waters/sodas, lunch in the tourist spot of Wall Drug, and of course, The Badlands. 
We found a place outside Rapid City to board the dogs and here, Russ would pick us up. The boarding facility wasn't too keen on the idea of us leaving our truck there (they had acres of property),  so we parked outside a gas station off the freeway. The drive was a good hour to the Badlands and as we got closer, the topography changed dramatically.  There were herds of wild buffalo along the way and as Russ drove us into the beautiful canyons and mountains of the Badlands, he drove down a side road coming across dozens of Big Horn sheep that came right up to the car.  Not feeling threatened by these cute animals, I got out to take pictures and surprisingly they struck a pose…..what a treat!  Russ has been giving tours of the Badlands for years and said he had never seen them so close.  I could see why this was proclaimed a National Park in the early 1900's.  Miles of stunning rock formations, hiking trails and wild animals once again put me in awe of our beautiful country.  We were told it was called the Badlands because in the 1800's, the Indians were relocated to this area where they were taught to farm but nothing would grow because of the hard dirt and clay.  The Indians died of diseases and starvation forcing those left behind to move elsewhere, thus named "Badlands".
Russ kept us entertained for hours  driving us to the Minuteman National Missile site Visitor's Center where we learned about the hundreds of U.S. nuclear warheads distributed in the area…..scary but interesting!  I wondered if we were standing on the more dangerous or the safest part of the U.S.?!  Whew!  after this, we were ready to drive to Wall Drug for lunch.
Wall Drug became known over the years after a pharmacist and his wife settled in the area establishing a pharmacy.  The business struggled and his wife would watch cars pass them on the highway.  One hot day she had the idea to give out free water to road travelers and soon the word got out that there was free water.  Signs went up in different locations and soon the business grew.  We enjoyed the cute western town (definitely a tourist spot) and enjoyed our lunch with Russ.  Our day long memorable tour was about over and I was so happy my husband got the much deserved driving break!

Some of the amazing formations of the Badlands

Buffalo

The Big Horn Sheep came to check us out






"I like Ewe"!





Badlands Backdrop



MOUNT RUSHMORE AND CRAZY HORSE
There was a chance of rain the day we made the trip to Mount Rushmore and Crazy Horse, but our trip to Rapid City, South Dakota was coming to an end and these were a must see! 
The four presidents, George Washington, Thomas Jefferson, Theodore Roosevelt and Abraham Lincoln were sculpted by Gutzon Borglum beginning in 1927.  He was chosen because of his work on Stone Mountain in Georgia and his ability to carve in granite. 
The rain, thunder and lightning did come as expected once we arrived at the park but it was intermittent allowing us to stand in total awe of the carvings of the four presidents.  The detail of the faces had me wonder how Borglum and his team could stay elevated for hours at this height (undoubtedly there'd be winds) in the Black Hills to carve.  The heads are proportioned to a man 465 feet tall and the mouths are 18 feet wide with noses 20 feet long.  So thrilled to have experienced Mount Rushmore,  now off to Crazy Horse.
Crazy Horse was actually named Tasunka Witco and born in the Black Hills of South Dakota.  He later earned his father's name after fighting in many battles including The Battle of Little Big Horn.  The Indians wanted the white man to know they also had heroes and proposed a carving be done not far from Mount Rushmore.  The face is 87' 6" tall and when the carving is complete, it will be 563 feet high.  Currently, Crazy Horse's hand, finger and the horses mane are being worked on.
We toured the visitors center but couldn't get close to the carving.  We learned a little about the Lakota Indian tribes and was entertained by a tribal dance.   
Entrance to Mount Rushmore

In awe of the sculptor's talent

A different perspective


Years in the making.  Crazy Horse's face is near completion

The outline of the project


Our stay in South Dakota was fun, exciting and educational.  We hope to someday come back to explore more of this beautiful state.